Woven Exploration
The WOVEN EXPLORATION kit designed to immerse students in the intricate world of textile construction, emphasizing how fabric is categorized beyond just its fiber content. While many might think of cotton simply as cotton, the kit reveals that the characteristics of a cotton fabric can vary widely depending on the weave used. For example, a plain weave cotton fabric is simple and versatile, making it suitable for a wide range of applications, from shirts to bedding. In contrast, a twill weave, such as that used in denim, offers a more textured surface and enhanced durability, with a distinctive diagonal pattern. The kit includes samples of various weaves like satin, herringbone, and sateen, illustrating how each type affects the fabric's look, feel, and performance.
By exploring these different weaves, students will understand that fabric construction is key to its functionality and aesthetic appeal. The kit encourages a deeper appreciation for the subtleties of textile design, showing that even within a single fiber type like cotton, the weave can influence the fabric's weight, drape, and suitability for different uses. This knowledge equips students with a more nuanced perspective on fabric selection, enabling them to make informed decisions in their future textile projects and designs.
Plain Weave
Definition: In plain weave fabric the warp and weft threads alternatively cross over and under each other. This is the most simple form of woven fabric.
Use: Some examples of plain weave fabrics are canvas, broadcloth, chambray, chiffon, georgette, shantung, flannel, muslin, poplin, voile, etc. Plain weave fabrics are strong and have no stretch unless the threads are elastic.
Twill Weave
Definition: Twill weave fabric has diagonal parallel ridges which are created when the weft thread passes over multiple warp threads then under the next warp threads in the same pattern.
Use: Twill is generally woven more closely and is therefore a stronger, more durable fabric. Denim is usually a twill.
Basket Weave
Definition: Basket weave fabric is made when two or more threads are lifted above or lowered under the next perpendicular threads repeatedly.
Use: Basket weave fabrics are not as stable as plain weave fabrics and frays more easily. Some examples of basket weave fabrics include monk’s cloth and oxford. These fabrics will only stretch on the bias unless the threads are elastic.
Satin Weave
Definition: In a satin weave the warp thread goes over four or more weft threads and is then tied down with one thread.
Use: Satin weave fabrics are smooth, and have a glossy face and a dull back. The satin weave allows for a higher shine fabric because light doesn’t scatter as much when it hits the threads. Satin weaves snag easily due to the large floats of the warp threads.
Jacquard Weave
Definition: Jacquard is characterized by the warp threads that cross over and under various amounts of weft threads which creates an intricate pattern. The pattern is visible on the face and reverse of the fabric.
Use: Jacquard is durable, wrinkle resistant, and frequently heavy weight. The design created on a jacquard won’t fade or wear off, making it an optimal fabric for upholstery. Jacquard is costly to manufacture as the weaving process is time consuming and laborious.
Dobby Weave
Definition: A dobby weave can only be made on a special dobby loom. The fabric is characterized by the manipulation of the warp threads which creates a small geometric texture.
Use: Dobby weaves are flexible and a bit thicker than plain weaves. They are inexpensive to manufacture and provide more texture than plain weaves while not being as complicated as a jacquard.
Herringbone Weave
Definition: Herringbone is a broken twill weave meaning the direction of twill shifts in parallel columns. The texture resembles the skeleton of a herringbone fish. Herringbone is tightly woven, strong, and durable.
Use: Satin weave fabrics are smooth, and have a glossy face and a dull back. The satin weave allows for a higher shine fabric because light doesn’t scatter as much when it hits the threads. Satin weaves snag easily due to the large floats of the warp threads.