Woven Exploration 

Definition: In plain weave fabric the warp and weft threads alternatively cross over and under each other. This is the most simple form of woven fabric.

Use: Some examples of plain weave fabrics are canvas, broadcloth, chambray, chiffon, georgette, shantung, flannel, muslin, poplin, voile, etc. Plain weave fabrics are strong and have no stretch unless the threads are elastic.

Definition: Twill weave fabric has diagonal parallel ridges which are created when the weft thread passes over multiple warp threads then under the next warp threads in the same pattern.

Use: Twill is generally woven more closely and is therefore a stronger, more durable fabric. Denim is usually a twill.

Definition: Basket weave fabric is made when two or more threads are lifted above or lowered under the next perpendicular threads repeatedly.

Use: Basket weave fabrics are not as stable as plain weave fabrics and frays more easily. Some examples of basket weave fabrics include monk’s cloth and oxford. These fabrics will only stretch on the bias unless the threads are elastic.

Definition: In a satin weave the warp thread goes over four or more weft threads and is then tied down with one thread.

Use: Satin weave fabrics are smooth, and have a glossy face and a dull back. The satin weave allows for a higher shine fabric because light doesn’t scatter as much when it hits the threads. Satin weaves snag easily due to the large floats of the warp threads.

Definition: Jacquard is characterized by the warp threads that cross over and under various amounts of weft threads which creates an intricate pattern. The pattern is visible on the face and reverse of the fabric.

Use: Jacquard is durable, wrinkle resistant, and frequently heavy weight. The design created on a jacquard won’t fade or wear off, making it an optimal fabric for upholstery. Jacquard is costly to manufacture as the weaving process is time consuming and laborious. 

Definition: A dobby weave can only be made on a special dobby loom. The fabric is characterized by the manipulation of the warp threads which creates a small geometric texture.

Use: Dobby weaves are flexible and a bit thicker than plain weaves. They are inexpensive to manufacture and provide more texture than plain weaves while not being as complicated as a jacquard. 

Definition: Herringbone is a broken twill weave meaning the direction of twill shifts in parallel columns. The texture resembles the skeleton of a herringbone fish. Herringbone is tightly woven, strong, and durable.

Use: Satin weave fabrics are smooth, and have a glossy face and a dull back. The satin weave allows for a higher shine fabric because light doesn’t scatter as much when it hits the threads. Satin weaves snag easily due to the large floats of the warp threads.